Road to Paris
by David Lawler, Head Sommelier – Rockpool Bar & Grill Melbourne
Working as a sommelier, one often ponders the most appropriate beverage for any given occasion. Air travel for example; few things seem to bring the destination along more swiftly than the refreshing tang of a Gin & Tonic. However, after the often laborious process involved in air travel with its endless lines of people, required hustle from airport gate to airport gate; at journey’s end few things are more accomplished at removing the crusty travel haze…than an icy cold beer…and a hot shower…then another beer. Just my professional opinion, that’s all.
The decision to spend a night in Paris before attending the general assembly of the Association Sommelerie Internationale (ASI) prove to be an inspired one. Firstly it gave us the opportunity to explore the quintessential Parisienne Bistro experience; secondly it allowed me to get intoxicated just enough on the atmosphere of the 6th arrondissment to think that having lunch in a 3 star Michelin restaurant on a Thursday in Paris was a good idea…and it was…a very good idea.
But first, the quintessential Parisienne bistro experience. This was perfectly executed by two long standing establishments. We had both received enough recommendations for the Duck with Olives at Bistro Allard, so that was fait accompli.
Refreshed, we headed to Brasserie Lipp for some more beer…somehow we ended up enjoying some oysters and a frosty glass of Taittinger, served with the deft touch of well seasoned French attitude. This attitudinal accent is oft associated with Parisienne waiters; they provide this attitude better than most and for no (obvious) extra cost, and it’s an experience that many people come to such a destination for, they come to Lipp…for the lip, you could say.
Brasserie Lipp successfully whet our appetites and gave us enough fuel to see if we could find Bistro Allard. Allard was every bit as French as Lipp, only without the tourists. A dining room without obvious tacky paraphernalia, small white clothed tables placed ‘cheek to jowl’ with no space between them.
A beautifully simplistic meal followed, with a plate of succulent white asparagus spears, terrine de foie gras and the plats de resistance; Duck with olives. Or perhaps Olives with Duck is a better title for the sublime dish (for 3 people, although the two of us managed just fine). Whole duck completely covered in green olives providing a delicious salty framework to the gamey flesh, all given a tart burst of freshness by a bottle of Beaujolais.
With beer, Beaujolais and duck in our bellies, naturally our thoughts turned to the next possible gastronomic experience for Paris. The decision was made to spend Thursday lunch at l’Arpege…another very good idea.
Chef Alain Passard has crafted an impeccable reputation founded on the purity of great vegetables that he rears in each of his three Parisienne gardens. Purity and provenance of produce is a concept many chefs talk about, yet I have rarely tasted dishes that talk so clearly, and with such volume, of the quality of the ingredients used (outside of Rockpool of course). It seems unfair (and very difficult) to single out a standout dish, perhaps the lobster with vin jeaune sauce, or the fava beans with summer truffles, even the 5 year old Comte Gruyere demanded more than a moment of contemplation, after 7 courses the presentation of a complete mille feuille actually scared me a little, but due to its ‘cloud like’ lightness it disappeared with surprising ease.
Within this ‘hit parade’ of dishes, one did manage to stand out; perhaps it was the clarity with which its otherwise humble ingredients expressed themselves. The most perfectly popping sweet fresh peas, partnered with little shards of strawberry, bound in a delicate onion emulsion; an engaging play between flavours that are intrinsically sweet with tasty, refreshing acidity…perfection.
Naturally, another very exciting element of great restaurants in France can be the wine lists with their ‘rivers’ of rarity; names like Lafon, Coche and Leflaive appear in such density that it can make one feel that Australia is a really, really, really long way away…unless you are at Rockpool Bar & Grill Sydney!
Due to the proposed lightness of the menu, and a weakness for Burgundy we felt that the 2004 vintage was a great place to start; and Domaine Leflaive’s Clavoillon is a very pure example of the lean, elegant nature of this vintage. As the menu progressed through lobster and duck we moved to the 2001 Clos de Ducs from Marquis d’Angerville which displayed all the pretty, elegant red fruits, florals and minerals of Volnay from this VERY drinkable vintage.
The Maitre d, provided a sense of hospitality that every professional should experience and aspire to; 3 stars anywhere (let alone Paris) can sometimes tend towards the celebration of all things snobbish, she managed to make us feel as though she was celebrating our choice to join her for lunch…impressive, sadly I cannot say the same for the sommeliers, but their apparent disinterest couldn’t dampen what was one of the most impressive meals of my career.
Next stop Bordeaux.
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Mille Feuille – l’Arpege, Paris
