L’Arpege is one of my favourite restaurants in the world.

I first went there in January 1993 with Ken Hom and had a wonderful meal. I will never forget that veal cutlet for 2 people carved at the table and a beautiful celeriac gratin. In those days the menu had side dishes to go with mains, I started out that meal with the legendary egg and maple syrup and had one of my all time favourite entrees of veal sweetbreads with truffle and chestnuts. I love being in Paris in truffle season and this dish was so good that over my next 4 visits I started with the very same marvellous sweet bread dish.

I was there the night in April 1996 when Alain Passard received his third Michelin star, he was a very happy man indeed. I have dined there a total of 14 times over the ensuing years so you might guess that it is a favourite. I love the total focus on produce, most of the vegetables come from his garden outside Paris and the preparation is completely simple, but at the same time complex, but don’t try this at home folks, it really requires great understanding to pull out the flavours.  

I was lucky enough to visit 3 times this year, one lunch and two dinners. Lots of the menu is vegetable based. On my last visit I ate peas, strawberries and basil with a light onion cream sauce, it should have been crazy but was one of the most delicious things I have ever eaten, the key being the peas straight from the garden that morning.

Most of the mains come out roasted, are presented whole, then come back to the table after being carved in the kitchen and paired with seasonal vegetables and a delicious sauce. I love the roast lobster or the lobster with sweet and sour raw turnips, either is a cracker. Fish roasted whole on the bone is wonderful and moist and the chicken cooked in vine leaves divine. The cheese in incredible - the old vintage Comte from 04 was so deep with flavour. Alain is famous for the sweet tomato dessert, but my two favourites are the Mille Feuille that is so light you can eat the largest slab without any problem and the apple tart with every rosette made from pure apple. 

You may have guessed that I’m fond of this restaurant, it is my absolute favourite in Paris.

Quite an amazing ‘59 burgundy tasting at Rockpool Bar & Grill last night.

All the wines were incredible, Bonnes-Mares and Clos de la Roche were youthful and delicious.

Then along came Romanee-Conti, what a wine!  The length of flavour and complexity is extraordinary, no wonder it is so famous - again the proof is in the pudding and the best rise to the top!

Then, just to finish off, a cheeky little magnum of  ’82 Lafleur, this is Bordeaux at its most opulent and it is a totally luscious wine.  

Thank you for your amazing generosity Mr Doyle you are one in a billion.

Road to Paris
by David Lawler, Head Sommelier – Rockpool Bar & Grill Melbourne

Working as a sommelier, one often ponders the most appropriate beverage for any given occasion.  Air travel for example; few things seem to bring the destination along more swiftly than the refreshing tang of a Gin & Tonic. However, after the often laborious process involved in air travel with its endless lines of people, required hustle from airport gate to airport gate; at journey’s end few things are more accomplished at removing the crusty travel haze…than an icy cold beer…and a hot shower…then another beer.  Just my professional opinion, that’s all.

The decision to spend a night in Paris before attending the general assembly of the Association Sommelerie Internationale (ASI) prove to be an inspired one.  Firstly it gave us the opportunity to explore the quintessential Parisienne Bistro experience; secondly it allowed me to get intoxicated just enough on the atmosphere of the 6th arrondissment to think that having lunch in a 3 star Michelin restaurant on a Thursday in Paris was a good idea…and it was…a very good idea.

But first, the quintessential Parisienne bistro experience.  This was perfectly executed by two long standing establishments.  We had both received enough recommendations for the Duck with Olives at Bistro Allard, so that was fait accompli.

Refreshed, we headed to Brasserie Lipp for some more beer…somehow we ended up enjoying some oysters and a frosty glass of Taittinger, served with the deft touch of well seasoned French attitude.  This attitudinal accent is oft associated with Parisienne waiters; they provide this attitude better than most and for no (obvious) extra cost, and it’s an experience that many people come to such a destination for, they come to Lipp…for the lip, you could say.

Brasserie Lipp successfully whet our appetites and gave us enough fuel to see if we could find Bistro Allard.  Allard was every bit as French as Lipp, only without the tourists.  A dining room without obvious tacky paraphernalia, small white clothed tables placed ‘cheek to jowl’ with no space between them.

A beautifully simplistic meal followed, with a plate of succulent white asparagus spears, terrine de foie gras and the plats de resistance; Duck with olives.  Or perhaps Olives with Duck is a better title for the sublime dish (for 3 people, although the two of us managed just fine).  Whole duck completely covered in green olives providing a delicious salty framework to the gamey flesh, all given a tart burst of freshness by a bottle of Beaujolais.

With beer, Beaujolais and duck in our bellies, naturally our thoughts turned to the next possible gastronomic experience for Paris.  The decision was made to spend Thursday lunch at l’Arpege…another very good idea.

Chef Alain Passard has crafted an impeccable reputation founded on the purity of great vegetables that he rears in each of his three Parisienne gardens.  Purity and provenance of produce is a concept many chefs talk about, yet I have rarely tasted dishes that talk so clearly, and with such volume, of the quality of the ingredients used (outside of Rockpool of course).  It seems unfair (and very difficult) to single out a standout dish, perhaps the lobster with vin jeaune sauce, or the fava beans with summer truffles, even the 5 year old Comte Gruyere demanded more than a moment of contemplation, after 7 courses the presentation of a complete mille feuille actually scared me a little, but due to its ‘cloud like’ lightness it disappeared with surprising ease.

Within this ‘hit parade’ of dishes, one did manage to stand out; perhaps it was the clarity with which its otherwise humble ingredients expressed themselves.  The most perfectly popping sweet fresh peas, partnered with little shards of strawberry, bound in a delicate onion emulsion; an engaging play between flavours that are intrinsically sweet with tasty, refreshing acidity…perfection.

Naturally, another very exciting element of great restaurants in France can be the wine lists with their ‘rivers’ of rarity; names like Lafon, Coche and Leflaive appear in such density that it can make one feel that Australia is a really, really, really long way away…unless you are at Rockpool Bar & Grill Sydney!

Due to the proposed lightness of the menu, and a weakness for Burgundy we felt that the 2004 vintage was a great place to start; and Domaine Leflaive’s Clavoillon is a very pure example of the lean, elegant nature of this vintage.  As the menu progressed through lobster and duck we moved to the 2001 Clos de Ducs from Marquis d’Angerville which displayed all the pretty, elegant red fruits, florals and minerals of Volnay from this VERY drinkable vintage.

The Maitre d, provided a sense of hospitality that every professional should experience and aspire to; 3 stars anywhere (let alone Paris) can sometimes tend towards the celebration of all things snobbish, she managed to make us feel as though she was celebrating our choice to join her for lunch…impressive, sadly I cannot say the same for the sommeliers, but their apparent disinterest couldn’t dampen what was one of the most impressive meals of my career.

Next stop Bordeaux.